[2003 Winter]

Slow Food
     

Several years ago, the expression "slow food" entered in the vocabulary of the Japanese and has ever since been increasingly used on TV programs, in newspaper and magazine articles, and in various other media. Books featuring "slow food" have also been printed in greater numbers.

 

The expression "slow food" originated in Slow Food movement, a Non-Profit Operation (NPO), which began in 1986 in Bra, Italy. The movement aims for the opposite of "fast food," seeking to find in culinary traditions what has been lost in todayfs world of puting higher priority on efficiency and economic growth. Slow Food dismisses todayfs standardized fast food and other mass-marketed foodstuffs, and seeks culinary ingredients and recipes that are traditional and local.

The 20th century was characterized as a century of industrialization, insatiably seeking productivity and efficiency. True to this trend, Japan relied heavily on imports for domestic food supply as they were cultivated on a greater scale and thus were cheaper. As a result, Japanfs food self-sufficiency ratio has dropped below 40%.



In the past couple of years, Japan was hit one after another by various food-related incidences, including mass poisoning by O-157 Escherichia coli, outbreak of mad-cow disease, and erroneous labeling of producing regions on food packages by leading food processors. This may be one of the reasons for the growing popularity of "slow food" here, prompting the Japanese people to realize what has been lost in the quest for productivity and efficiency, including the values now represented by the Slow Food movement.

 

There is a Japanese term "chisan chisho" which is similar in meaning to "slow food." The expression means "to consume locally what has been cultivated in the region." Under the theme "chisan chisho," various attempts are being mounted to forge closer communications and stronger mutual trust between food producers and consumers. This appears to be prompted in part by growing consumer awareness regarding food safety. Similar movements are emerging in China and Korea as well, where the ancient common expression "shindo fuji" is increasingly gaining popularity. This term literally means "Body and soil are one," and is thought to encourage people to eat what has been harvested in their regions.
Witnessing similar food movements emerging in different regions of the world at the same time leads us to believe that these movements may be an inevitable hallmark of today.

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